November 10, 2008

The Residential Solar Panels, Part One

Filed under: House Of Home Improvement, University of Science — admin @ 9:46 am

It may get a little confusing when one is looking at turning their place of residence into a solar home. If you are walking up and down the aisles of an energy savings establishment, you will soon realize that you have plenty of options to choose from for just simply putting panels on your roof to collect the sun’s energy. The real question here is: “How do you decide which panel is right for you and your household’s needs?”

There are plenty of solar panels that provide you with that “going green” effect, and still offer you that energy savings attribute which comes with using solar energy.

You will find renewable energy sources in Solar PV Panels, also known as Photovoltaic. They also come in PV Modules, or what is known as Solar Electric Panels. These are energy efficient avenues when you are thinking about solar paneling your home.
The next thing that you will have to consider, besides how many you are going to need, is deciding upon its function, because solar panels come as foldable, flexible and on wheels. Foldable, flexible and on wheels are all a legal resource for energy.

When choosing panels for residential use; do not confuse commercial panels with residential ones. For home use, you should be looking at Soar Electric Panels or Solar Hot Water Panels. This is another difference in your options of solar energy and going green. A panel isn’t just a panel as you can see.

Although the solar electric and hot water panels appear to look quite similar in style, size and fashion, their functions vary. So just because they look alike, they are not completely identical.

To better understand these differences, let’s take a look at the functions of each.
1. Solar Electric Panels are panels which capture the solar energy in light form and later convert that light into electricity.
2. Solar Hot Water Panels are panels which capture energy in heat form and later transfer the heat energy into water.

To make your home more efficient, you should consider using both kinds of panels - working together as a complete system.
Once you start looking at all the panels that are available for your use, and even if you are crafty and want to create your own, you are still going to need to know how many panels you will have to purchase or create for your home. You do not just walk in and start picking up panels 6 to 8 at a time. You only need what you are going to use on a daily basis.

As mentioned earlier, the quantity of panels that you will need for the project depends on how many appliances and electrical apparatuses you are going to be using in your home and what your household loads are going to be.

September 19, 2008

Asbestos Terminology

Filed under: University of Science — admin @ 7:48 pm

You should be able to find several indispensable facts about asbestos in the following paragraphs. If there’s at least one fact you didn’t know before, imagine the difference it might make.

Many things have been said about asbestos, but also many times we do not know nor understand the definitions of some terminology related to it. For that reason we have gather some of the most common words used when we speak about asbestos.

Is everything making sense so far? If not, I’m sure that with just a little more reading, all the facts will fall into place.

Here you are:

Abatement: This is method that has been accepted with the intention of handle materials that contain asbestos (i.e., enclosure, removal, and encapsulation).

Asbestos Building Survey: By this survey, it is possible to recognize, estimate and measure the ACM in a certain location (i.e. building, factory).

Asbestos Encapsulation: This means the act of cover a material that contains asbestos. This can be done whether by penetrating an encapsulating agent or by covering the contaminated object with a material impregnated with an agent which was previously latex encapsulated.

Asbestos Enclosure: When we talk about asbestos enclosure we are making reference to the act of physically enclosure those materials contaminated with asbestos right on the place where this material was found. The enclosure is made by placing a hard permanent barrier. One thing to be considered to be enclosed in case that the walls are not pulled down, are the insulates straight up heating risers that are located at the back of outside perimeter walls.

Asbestos Containing Material: (by NYCDEP) A material is considered asbestos containing when it contains 1% o greater asbestos according to laboratory tests.

Asbestos Removal Project : This means the objective elimination of materials contaminated with asbestos. Just a certified service provider who employs skilled and authorized personnel who follows the applicable regulations, can do this. If you’ve picked some pointers about asbestos that you can put into action, then by all means, do so. You won’t really be able to gain any benefits from your new knowledge if you don’t use it.

Mesothelioma and Asbestos Articles for Website Content

Facts About the Black Hills Spruce Tree

Filed under: University of Science — admin @ 1:47 am

Facts About the Black Hills Spruce Tree

Did you know that Black Hills Spruce trees have dark, dark brown bark and dark, dark green needles which are their leaves? From afar, it takes surprisingly few of any evergreen tree to appear black. It takes even fewer of the Black Hills Spruce trees together to make an apparently black forest. Yes, the Black Forest of Bavaria in Germany is named for it’s evergreen trees. One-third of the Black Forest today is spruce, and pine trees are close behind at 30%. Evergreen trees are (for)ever green, but none is more deeply, darkly green than mountain area Spruce trees like the Black Hills Spruce. There are no species of European Spruce trees named for the Black Forest, but the Rocky Mountains’ Spruce trees which have remained for millions of years in the Black Hills were named well.

So, guess what percent of the trees covering the Black Hills are Black Hills Spruce trees? The Ponderosa Pine tree, also known as the Western Yellow Pine tree makes up over three quarters of the area’s trees, 76%! Would you believe just 4% of the trees in the Black Hills are Black Hills Spruce Trees? Yeesh.

Spruce trees are not just valuable as evergreen trees suitable for rich, year ’round, dark green color from their dense needle-leaves, and of course, for Christmastime.

One of our customers worked at the Homestake Gold Mine after graduating from college. Left over from the 1876 Gold Rush to the Black Hills of South Dakota, where George Custer was supposed to chase away the prospectors bothering the Sioux Indians, but instead tried the opposite and got himself killed, the Homestake Gold mine is still operating today. The mine is a great tourist attraction, ranking right up there with Mount Rushmore, Crazy Horse Mountain, the indoor hot springs pool in the town of, well, Hot Springs. The Homestake Mine has produced more gold than any other mine in the entire western hemisphere, including the huge open-pit surface mines of Nevada.

Guess what species of tree from the forest of the Black Hills has been favored for the timber supports and structures down in the mine all these 120-odd years ? It was the aptly named Black Hills Spruce, because the spruce wood is better able to stand up to being constantly bumped and being constantly wet (you wouldn’t believe just how wet underground mines are our customer tells us) than the far more locally common Ponderosa Pine wood.

How about that? If you want to mine your property with an underground operation, you’ll be able to cut down your mature spruce trees in just 30 years after you plant the seedlings you bought from SeedlingsRus, or maybe just half that time, 15 years, if you get 6-foot saplings.

If you are planting seedlings, remember the need to help with the life support of your plants. Seedlings are like fish out of water and need care which is often overlooked between the time the seedlings are lifted and transplanted. Improper care means higher mortality. Do not try and reinvent the wheel. You must protect seedling from moisture and temperature extremes, as well as physical damage. Seedlings are living and should be handled carefully. For a higher survival rate, treat trees carefully and plant them immediately. I like to have a backup plan for planting if the weather turns bad. I will sometimes switch from lining out the seedlings to potting them up if I realize that the soil conditions will not be right for an extended lenght of time. If planting must be delayed a few days, keep the plants in a cold, protected place with air circulation between the trees. Keep the trees out of the rain and wind. To check if the trees need water, feel the media at the roots.. If it isn’t damp, water the trees and allow the excess water to drain. In cool, damp weather, the biggest threat to these trees is from mold. Try to keep out of soil seedlings moist by either restricting water loss with a water vapor barrier or by wetting the roots at regular intervals. While handling or planting try to reduce temperature and air movement around the seedlings. Windy days can dry out seedlings so consider waiting for calmer weather. Once your soil conditions are correct OUR FREE USE PLANTERS will make planting a snap so its will be worth waiting for good planting conditions.

Ideal planting days are cool and cloudy with little or no wind. If possible, avoid planting on warm, windy days. The soil should be moist not wet. Care in planting is more important than speed. Make sure the roots are never allowed to become dry. Bare root seedlings should be carried in a waterproof bag or bucket with plenty of moist material packed around the roots to keep them damp. Ideally, bare root boxes should be kept refrigerated or packed in ice or snow. Don’t freeze the trees. Competition from weeds, grass, brush or other trees is very detrimental to survival and growth of seedlings. Choose areas free from this competition or clear at least a three-foot square bare spot before planting. Seedlings should not be planted under the crown of existing trees, or closer than 6 feet to existing brush. Avoid areas near walnut trees. Brush aside loose organic material such as leaves, grass, etc., from the planting spot to expose mineral soil. If organic matter gets into the planting hole, it can decompose and leave air spaces. Roots will dry out when they grow into these spaces. Open up the hole, making sure the hole is deep enough for the roots to be fully extended. If roots are curled or bunched up, the tree will not be able to take up water correctly, will often weaken and die, or may blow down later due to poor root structure. Take a tree out of your planting bag or bucket only after a hole is ready. When exposed, the fine roots can dry out in as little as 30 seconds. Seedling shoots and roots lose water to air, roots require more protecting.Unlike leaves ,they do not have stomata (closeable openings on the surface of the leaves) or any waxy coatings to help reduce water loss. If the roots apear dry they are probably dead. Now I know you are thinking,”I will place them in a buckect of water and store them there until planting”. This will not work. Submerge plants for no longer that a couple of minutes. Placing them in water cuts them off from oxygen. Remember to remove the container before planting a containerized tree. A helpful hint to all those new gardeners just starting is to remember to always plant green side up. Hold the seedling in place in the hole, making sure the roots are straight, fully extended and that the tree is neither too shallow or too deep in the hole. Fill hole, allowing soil to fall in around the roots. Tamp with hands or with your heel. Don’t crush the roots by jumping up and down around the seedling like there is a snake curled up around the seedling. It is delicate. Fill with more soil, if necessary, and tamp. Tamping is important. If soil is not firmly packed around the roots, there will be air pockets that can dry out the roots, and the seedlings may be weakly anchored. It is far easier to plant the tree strait up then have the tree leaning and have to staiten the tree later. (Addition of fertilizer and plant vitamins at the time of planting is not generally necessary.) Take your time in planting. Proper spacing will help you grow a more valuable crop. I have tried to get more production from a limited area by over planting and then thinning, but I always have had trouble in harvesting …. digging is slower and poor quality usually results for a portion of the crop.

Avoid these tree planting errors:

Tangled roots Planting too shallow Planting too deep Air pockets Turned up roots (this is called J rooting) Planting trees that are not tolerant of wet soils in poorly drained areas Planting over rocks, septic tanks and leach fields, on sand mounds

FOLLOWING PLANTING check periodically to be sure that brush, grass and other vegetation is kept under control by mowing, mulching, spraying or a combination of these treatments. Always obtain advice from a licensed pest control advisor before using chemicals. You ag extension agency may offer courses in application of chemicals. Monitoring the appearance of your trees will help you to detect signs of insects, diseases or other problems. Apperances also help sell your product. Look for foliage turning yellow, new foliage drooping or other signs of poor health. It is easier to take successful corrective action if the problem is detected early.

Overwatering is a common problem in irrigated plantations. You probably won’t need to water more frequently than every 7-10 days. Give your trees a thorough, deep soak and then let the soil dry out before the next watering. This encourages the roots to grow down in search of water. Frequent, shallow watering encourages root growth near the surface and the trees are more dependent on irrigation and are less windfirm. Read about water saving ideas for gardeners.

Animals can be a major cause of damage to young trees. Porcupines, gophers, mice, rabbits, deer and cattle are the most frequent source of damage. In many states you may have to call your game commission and get their recomendations on legal methods to protect your crop. In our state, you can get help from the Pa. Game Commission to kill deer that are a threat to your seedlings or obtain a free fence to keep deer away from your seedlings. Over the years we have lost more trees to mice than any other animal. Put rat baits out on a regular basis.

Other articles that you will find of interest:

http://seedlingsrus.com/DeerDamageControl http://seedlingsrus.com/NewConstruction http://seedlingsrus.com/Soils http://seedlingsrus.com/PlantingTips.html http://www.zone5trees.com/GrowingGrasses.html

September 18, 2008

Unusual Uses of Backyard Plants and Trees

Filed under: University of Science — admin @ 11:08 pm

Highland Hill Farm just doesn’t sell and install “landscaping beauty.” We’re providing you with food and raw materials! Why not raise plants that have uses other because they look good? Of course you already know that you can use the wood from your trees instead of going to a lumber yard or home supplies center. You’ve learned about the historical use of the Viburnum’s straight branches for making arrow shafts. Then, the hardwood trees you have planted can provide fruits or nuts.

But did you know you can rub the powder found on the bark of a Quaking Aspen tree on your skin and it works as mosquito repellent. You see, mosquito repellent actually works not because the mosquitoes are driven away by the offensive smell, but because there are chemical compounds whose odor blocks the mosquito’s sensory receptors effectively hiding us. So, you can be invisible to mosquitoes by buying mosquito repellent with “DEET,” an organic hydrocarbon molecule, or use the powder from the bark of your Quaking Aspen tree, an organic molecule from a whole ‘nuther source.

Edible Wild plants. Yes you can safely eat the following:

The leaves of the Quaking Aspen also make a tasty tea which will cure minor headaches. The Quaking aspen leaves contain salicylic acid, the active ingredient of (acetylsalicylic) aspirin. Silver Birch trees’ bark makes a tea which has long been considered as medicinal as chicken soup.

Arborvitae , the “lifegiving tree,” obviously has made a superbly beneficial tea for centuries. The leaves and bark both are boiled in water to yield Vitamin C along with the tannins, etc. and prevent or cure scurvy. Maybe you don’t like orange juice, or more likely, have been given a dietary restriction for citrus fruit. Just have some tea from a Thuja Occidentalis, the Eastern Cedar, or Eastern White Cedar, also called Northern White Cedar, boy oh boy, the Arborvitae sure has alot of names! Anyway, you can check on the value of Arborvitae Tea; Just get a time machine, go back to 1536 near Quebec, and ask the explorer Jacques Cartier and his men. Burdock is edible. (But it tastes very bitter)

>From the popular dogwood tree, you can eat the berries. NOT the plant, bark, or leaves, but the Dogwood’s fruit, the berries, are edible (sad note, you will likely find the berries taste almost as bitter as burdock plant). The inside bark of a cottonwood tree tastes pretty fair. The white inside part of a cattail tastes very good. It’s like a mild cucumber. Watercress is sold as a delicacy in restaurants. It has a strong flavor, tasting rather spicy like radishes) Poplar bark is tolerable. Anise is truly delicious if you like black licorice. Dandelion leaves make a great salad, the roots can be roasted and then ground to make a kind of coffee or tea drink with boiled water, or you can even make dandelion wine. Any kind of mint can be grown alongside your shrubs and flowers. Be sure you harvest it often or some species of mint will become “an invasive” and take over your whole yard.

Wild rose hips can be rather expensive to buy, but are high in Vitamin C, an ingredient in many teas. Just don’t eat the flowers or plant stems. Thistle is more like a weed, a real weed, but if you’ll scrape the thorns off (duh!) you can eat the leaf or the inside of the blossom as salad greens. Berries. whether strawberries, raspberries, chokecherries (can seem like too much pit to be worth it), currants (Tart tasting), serviceberries, gooseberries (green, “stripy” and very TART!), purple elderberries (red ones are poisonous), cranberries, and best of all, blueberries are just about the best example of what we can eat that grows wild. Don’t eat sumac berries, they are poisonous!

Prickly Pear Cactus is indeed a succulent. Scrape off the skin, boil the inside, and you’ll see why it is botanically classified as “succulent.” Clover can be eaten as a salad green. You can even eat the four-leafed ones for extra folic acid to go with your good luck. Did you know it has been claimed an apple can be more helpful for waking up in the morning than a cup of coffee, or the more caffeine-rich orange-colored teas? A morning or two, try an apple fresh-picked from your own apple tree and see if you feel the lift.

Our use plant links http://seedlingsrus.com/Arborvitae.html http://seedlingsrus.com/FreeFencing.html http://seedlingsrus.com/Winter http://zone5trees.com/Hedges http://zone5trees.com/PlantingInstructions.html http://zone5trees.com/ProfitsGrowingTrees.html http://seedlingsrus.com/GrowingRhodies.html